How to Install a Hanger Style Fuel Pump

In this video from the Delphi how to video series, we will show you how to replace only the electric fuel pump in a hanger style fuel system safely and efficiently.



Hi everyone, and welcome to Delphi how to video series. I’m Dave Hobbes, senior trainer here at Delphi product and service solutions. In this video, we’re going to show you how to replace just the electric pump in a hanger style fuel pump assembly.

^^We always put safety first, so make sure that you are thorough and you’re careful. Don’t get in a hurry. Don’t forget to wear safety glasses and gloves. A fire extinguisher on hand, and work in a well-ventilated area away from anything that could have a flame or spark.

It’s always recommendable to replace an entire fuel pump sending unit assembly of the hangers style variety. However, once in a while, you get your back against the wall. They don’t have the application available in stock of the complete hanger unit with all the hardware the electrical connections the sending unit and so forth as well as the pump, or maybe price is an extreme consideration. So, while not recommendable to do just the pump only, sometimes we know what happens. Therefore we have applications just for that. I want to give you some tech tips real quick on how to do it. Now, it’s quite simple once you get the assembly out, you’re drained, you’ve read directions that may be in the box or even on the box, you got safety glasses, safety gloves, we’re going to go ahead and remove a secondary clip with a pair of cutters here, a little wire tie basically, and then we’ll take the screw out that holds the pump to the hanger assembly. And that’s a seven millimeter screw. There we go. Put the hardware here. Just remove that, kind of swings back. All my new parts in the box are laid out here in order. I’m going to take a pocket screwdriver. I’m going to depress that connector and pull that up. There we go. That’s about all that’s left holding this job in, so as I press down, pull back, there we go, get it up.

Now, the main fuel feed line has got a permanent hose clamp, one that’s been squeezed once. I gave up a little bit of the head of that hose clamp came off but still it’s a little bit loose but it’s not prying off, so good news is Delphi kit came with the new replacement hose and a couple worm drive hose clamps. So what we’re going to do, go up here and cut the top off, because we got the new hose. But I want to be a little more careful with my sending unit arm and float. So, a little tech tip here to be careful with it, a simple rubber band, maybe a little piece of the harness here, a little bit of spring action, it’s out of my way and now I can tilt this thing up a little bit and get a little better access to my hose. Now I’m going to take pocket knife, being very careful not cut myself. We’ll do a little surgery on the hose. Careful not to cut into the plastic of the component of the hanger assembling and we got it. Now it’s going to come loose. Now I’ve got the pump removed, so pump, hose, and strainer. I’ll set that aside. And now it’s time for reassembly.

While we’ve got to this point, let’s go ahead and take advantage of a lot of this being out of our way and remove and replace the seal that seals the sending unit assembly to either the side of the tank to keep fuel from dripping out, or the top of tank to keep vapors from coming out. In either case, check engine light or a gas leak are a bad idea. So, we got the new one here, let’s go ahead and use the new one. The old one you may need to kind of pop it loose because it may be kind of sealed stuck down, but we’re going to kind of push it. There are guide pins, you can look right here, they’re like little Christmas trees that pop in and want to stay in on the back side. So, that’s we’re going to pop loose out of here and work that away down off the hangar out of our way. Grab the new one. Might not be a bad idea to see if these things are polarized the far as mechanical position. It looks like they are if they are the same ones and they are the same one. So we’ve got to make sure we get the new one back into place of the old one. Let’s clean up the flange if we need to. And it’s looking pretty good, feeling pretty good. Don’t want to put any new seal against a gritty surface. So work that way down back against carefully around the float. And it’s only going to go one way because you want to be able make sure you line up the little pilot holes that hold the seal on and the bolt holes the screw holes to hold the assembly into the side of the tank. Quick inspection. Okay, everything is there and it looks like it’s going to stay in place. Now, while I’m focused on this area with you right now, I want to talk about some tech tips to help you prevent comebacks. As a lot of pumps gets sold, complete hanger assemblies, modular units, you name it, and it’s electrical issues all along. It was never the pump. In this case, it would be a heartache to put a new pump in only to find out that it has a problem six months later and you think it’s another bad pump but in reality it’s a connection issue. So we want to do is give a bright light and magnifying glass, if you can’t see that well, but we want to look for any signs of discoloration where this rubber seal around these Spade type connectors, a male and female here, where it’s swelled, its had discoloration from heating, and also obviously want to make a little tugging here make sure it doesn’t feel loose. And you do the same thing at the ground connection. Maybe even put your nut driver on there to snug that up. And look for any signs of brown, even tan, dark tan, discoloration of the white plastic connection. That indicates it’s been hot due to a voltage drop and that’s going to result in not enough power to the pump and a drivability problem, maybe same as you had before. So you nip these in the bud. If you discolorations down here, this connection is not replaceable you get a hanger assembly whether you wanted to or not. But if it’s, if it’s got an issue here or here, we can fix that while we got it down and we’re replacing the pump alone. Now in some applications our kit would have accommodations for a new connection if it was that type of connection instead of this type of connection with a little eyelet ground and a spade connection for your power. So we don’t need that pigtailed but we have checked the old one of this style everything looks good. Let’s put the pump in and reassemble.

While installing the rubber insulator isolator on the bottom of the pump, want to make sure the things line up. So take your time and do a little inspection here. What we’re going to do is we’re going to look and see what’s what. Now I’ve got a little Halfmoon shaped right here the bottom of the pump, as you look inside the rubber isolator here I’ve got a Halfmoon shape and the bottom of that one too right about there. So what I want to do is make sure those go together in that spot, in that orientation, so everything lines up the way it was made. And I do believe I have.

All right, now, next thing you’re going to do is you’re going to put on this, the filter, the small like of 10 micron filter, or the strainer, as it’s sometimes called. So we’ve got it lined up, in fact you can look at the old pump is kind of a guide to how things are supposed to go. So we want to make sure we’re getting ready to put on the strainer now on to the end of the pump with the isolator in place. So we’re going to line up this little open star connection right here. That’s going to be what’s going to hold that strainer on the bottom of the pump with that pin right up there. But while that may look like a rubber o-ring or seal, it’s actually another dust cover that we have to remove, There we go, in order for me to assemble these two pieces together. So let’s go ahead and assemble them now we’re ready and you’ll hear it go click, there it went.

So now we are ready with the strainer here in place and we’re going to mount the pump. Now before we do that, let’s go ahead and move our sending unit arm float assembly up and retape it. Alright so we’re going to replace the hose, a little bit of silicon. Now next thing I’ll do I’ll reassemble with a new hose and I will go ahead I lubricated that a little bit beforehand and I will put my new worm drive hose clamp on. Now they give you more hose than you need, which is better, way better, than less hose than you need. There may be different applications that have a little longer hose, so we’re going to snug that up nice and tight so we don’t have any leaks, but not stripping that worm drive hose clamp. Let’s go ahead and measure out. So what was the old and what is our new we I kind of eye that out. Here, looks like we need to maybe cut right about there as we have them pretty much shoulder to shoulder. We need to cut right about there, so i’ll make a little score marks right here and then i’ll cut it and careful not to cut myself. All right, now we tighten it up here first for a reason, give us a little leverage to shove it over the other end because that’s a little bit more of a barbed fitting. Going to be a bit more of a challenge. So let’s go ahead and back that out, put the new one on, shove her out of the way and we’re going to go in to the new fitting using the leverage of the having that hose locked in place. Twist and twist until she seats out. There, looks like she seated out. We’ll know if it’s the right length because it will pop just in the place with the end of the hanger unit. Like so. Perfecto.

Alright, so now let’s run our wires back where we found them. Make sure that’s going to go in. It will. While we’ve got this kind of in place, tighten up that last hose clamp to loosen it up a bit to get it to go over and go. You want to make sure you don’t have any issues with any metal grounding against any metal. That’s the whole point the isolator. These pumps do vibrate a bit, that’s normal, and rubber isolates it and you don’t hear it rattling in the tank. So we’ll do the best job we can with our hose clamps not having them ground out against anything that’s going to be metal about them. Get that one nice and tight. Alright, a little bit of twisting there we are. Okay so it looks just like it did when we pulled it out, pretty much. No, exactly. It is an OE fit.

That looks like all’s left is the electrical connector. Should just slide in and oh, click, oh that sounded good. Alrighty, and a couple of mounts. The primary mount and then the backup wire tie. So we’ll get that latched into place. Going to put that screw right into that bracket there’s my little pressure relief hose. Seven millimeter. And we will get that to bite, take some threads. Clamp that guy down. And the secondary. I’ll pull that around. Nice and tight. Give it a little twist and a clip. There we go, we’re all locked in place electrically, fuel wise, and mechanically isolated.

Here’s an OE Delphi pump in place of the old one using the original hanger assembly. We’re ready to go except for one last thing. Let’s not forget. We’ve got a rubberband holding this little float arm in place we don’t want the car showing full all the time. An accurate fuel gauge is a whole lot better than one showing full all the time.

Thanks for watching. Be sure to check out more of the Delphi how to video series so that you can have more tips on saving money and saving time in your shop every day.